Every Time a Restaurant Opens, a Foodie Gets Her (Third) Chin


The ripping and tearing sounds you’ll hear in the week following Thanksgiving aren’t your favorite jeans finally giving up the post-11-helpings-of-leftover-stuffing good fight, it’s the brown paper coming off the windows of four new Portland restaurants. Or so we hope. Keep your fingers crossed for the following eateries to throw open their doors as scheduled.


Genoa, former prix fixe grand dame of Portland, which has seen the likes of Cathy Whims, Tommy Habetz and Kevin Gibson pass through its kitchen since opening in 1971, reopens after a yearlong hiatus with a new look, a new chef, and a new friend–adjoining Accanto, a casual neighborhood enoteca and cafe with seasonal Italian-influenced cuisine, a European wine list, cocktails, and local microbrews on tap. Both kitchens are under the watch of Executive Chef David Anderson (formerly of Vindalho, Lauro Kitchen, Southpark), but while Genoa will offer a five-course, $55 tasting menu for dinner five nights a week (Tue-Sat), Accanto will be open for lunch and dinner daily, and will feature a simple but intriguing menu with “snacks” like an antipasti plate with roasted beets and Tuscan white bean and kale crostini, salumi and cheese plates, Taleggio-stuffed housemade foccacia, inventive paninis like the wild boar ragu with provolone, and inexpensive entrees. Accanto is walk-in only, but you can make reservations at Genoa.

Genoa: 2832 SE Belmont St. Portland * Tue-Sat 5:30–9:30pm * 503.238.1464 * www.genoarestaurant.com

Accanto: 2838 SE Belmont St. Portland * Sun-Thu 11am-9pm, Fri-Sat 11am-11pm * 503.235.4900 * www.accantopdx.com


As the eagerly anticipated restaurant and salumeria Olympic Provisions prepares to open in the Produce Row neighborhood of the Southeast waterfront next week, there’s a lot of buzz surrounding the OP and its roster of influential and accomplished partners, which include Clyde Common owner Nate Tilden, Clyde Common Executive Chef Jason Barwikowski, and former Executive Chef of Castagna Elias Cairo, who will assume the unique title of “meat-curing chef.” The restaurant will initially open for lunch only, but plans to serve dinner in the future. Expect a local and European influenced-wine list and hearty small plates, and of course, plenty of meat–sausages, patés, rillettes, and charcuterie galore.

107 SE Washington St. Portland * Mon-Fri 11am-6pm * 503.954.3663 * www.olympicprovisions.comFacebook


Last night, after devouring some pumpkin gelato at Staccato, I could see lights on in Spints Alehouse, which is about to open in the building that briefly housed Cafe 401 earlier this year. I dragged my visiting parents over for a looksee, and we had our noses pressed to the mottled glass, trying to see inside, when chef/owner Alyssa Gregg opened the door and asked if we wanted to come in. She gave us a tour of the nearly-finished bar, kitchen, and cozy little dining room, which has big black booths and some pretty amazing light fixtures by Hippo Hardware. The bar area is painted in warm creamy coffee hues with a faux leather effect on the walls, a sturdy wood and stone bar, and some great dark wood cabinetry that includes two traditional-style cupboards for storing regulars’ beer steins. Alyssa characterizes her cuisine as German fare lightened up with Belgian, French, and Pacific Northwest influences, with dishes like garlic-almond soup with crème fraiche, duck egg nudels with chicory, hazelnuts and raw gouda, and smoked chicken paprikash with roasted roots and cured lemon. Ted Charak, formerly of Teardrop Lounge, will oversee the bar, which will feature local and regional beers and a local distillers-focused cocktail menu.

401 N.E. 28th Ave. Portland * 503.847.2534 * Tue-Sat 4pm-close *  spintspdx.com