Gatekeepers: Ox

Since chefs Greg and Gabrielle Denton‘s busy, buzzy, deliciously-smoky Ox opened April 24 to near-instant adoration, general manager Natalie Obeso (Commander’s Palace, Metrovino) has deftly manned the door, as wildfire word of mouth and critical acclaim (particularly the Oregonian’s grade A late-July review) prompted waits to balloon to two and a half hours — inspiring the Dentons to open their own bar/waiting room, Whey Bar, scheduled to debut next week.

gatekeepersnatalieThis week, I sat down with with Obeso for Eater PDX’s Gatekeepers series, and got the skinny on eager diners willing to endure two-and-a-half-hour waits, the best lamb chop she’s ever tasted, becoming immune to smelling like a campfire, and the restorative power of an empanada.