Broder
Broder calls itself “Sweden in Portland,” a distinction that used to belong to IKEA, but I don’t mind at all that Broder’s taken the title. Lit by the glowing metal branches of the unusual tree-like light fixture that runs the length of this minimalistically funky and exceedingly popular Clinton Street cafe, the long narrow confines let you get cozy with your neighbors–so be friendly and keep an eye on your æbleskiver.
The tight-tshirt-clad boys in the kitchen never disappoint, hardly pausing as they calmly and swiftly turn out smokin’ hot cast-iron skillets of freshly-made æbleskiver.
Thanks to the intimacy of it all, you get a front-row seat to the making of your meal–and the tight-tshirt-clad boys in the kitchen never disappoint, hardly pausing as they calmly and swiftly turn out smokin’ hot cast-iron skillets filled with potato-studded smoked trout hash, baked duroc ham and Swedish farmer’s cheese scrambles, hot little pyramids of freshly-made abelskivers–pleasantly dense little pancake orbs accompanied by tiny dipping bowls of lemon curd, lingonberry jam and maple syrup.
Traditional Breakfast Boards abound–wooden planks loaded with a barely abbreviated smogasboard that might include a soft-boiled egg, ham, soft and hard cheeses, fruit compote, a grapefruit half, a hunk of hearty brown bread from nearby Little T American Baker, Nancy’s yogurt with honey, and even gravlax (cured salmon, if you aren’t up on your Swedish). The grapefruit mimosas, served in plump stemless wineglasses, are the perfect balance of freshly squeezed citrus and sparkling wine, and soon render the sometimes prohibitive wait for a table a distant memory. It also helps that you can step next door to the Savoy and sip hot complimentary coffee until Broder comes a’ callin.
Not just a pretty breakfast face, Broder also serves lunch and dinner. Try the meatballs in sherry cream sauce or the choose-your-own smorgasboard adventure, and I promise you that moving to Sweden WILL cross your mind.
Details
Cuisine: Scandinavian
Atmosphere: Loud, hip, cramped, busy, happy, delicious-smelling
Outdoor seating: Yes, a few tables out on the sidewalk overlooking SE Clinton St.
Best Seat: I like to sit in the front window, the tables are bigger and you aren’t six inches from the person next to you, so that when you have to use the restroom, your big food-loving bum brushes right over the top of their hash/scramble/breakfast board/hand. This makes nobody happy.
Noise Level: Energetic – Boisterous discussion is compounded by a rather polarizing soundtrack (I happen to love Cyndi Lauper tunes with my smoked trout hash), but conversation is possible.
Dress Code: Casual
Bring the Kids: Yes
Bathrooms: Yes, straight through the toothpick skinny dining room and all the way to the back, can’t miss it, if you have to wait though, you’re totally out in the open which can be uncomfortable for some, so if you’ve just seen someone go in, wait until they re-emerge to pop up and do your business
Parking: Free and plentiful on Clinton and surrounding streets
Cocktails: No
Beer: Broder takes their beer list seriously, they have one Oregon beer on tap, but a very nicely rounded selection of Belian, German, Polish, English, Norwegian, Danish, and Swedish beers ($4-$12) should please both the beer gourmand and the beer curious
Wine: Compact but nicely chosen selection of mostly French whites, reds and dessert wines ($24.50-$61.25). Be sure to get a grapefruit or classic mimosa with brunch (or breakfast, or lunch), they are excellent—perfect ratio of juice to champagne, and served in nifty stemless wineglasses.
Corkage: $10
Teetotalers: Orange, grapefruit & cranberry juice, lemonade, Pellegrino, Iced Tea, Arnold Palmer, Aranciata, Limonata, Coke, Diet Coke, Sprite, Hot Chocolate, Apple Cider
Coffee: Stumptown
Tea: Jasmine Pearl
Ideal Meal: Smoked trout hash, abelskivvers, grapefruit mimosa
Vegetarian Friendly: Yes
Vegan Friendly: Yes
Good for the following occasions: Out With Friends, Family Meal, Brunch
Group/Private Party Details: Yes
Reservations: No
Take-Out: Yes
Delivery: No
Deals: Check out the Broder website to buy direct gift certificates online—for every $25 you spend, you get a gift certificate for $35