DOC

The first time I went to DOC, it was in the summer of 2008, on the restaurant’s 28th day of existence, and I was with my supper club—a motley crew of friends, family and total strangers that included my parents and several very good friends, a depressed English girl who was about to be deported and a local food blogger who wouldn’t stop complaining about the flavor profiles. The air conditioning wasn’t working properly so everyone was melting into their cannoli, which caused more complaining all around, and for many months after that whenever I proposed going back to DOC to see how things were going, people got haunted looks and started compulsively fanning themselves, even if it was snowing outside.

The first time I went to DOC, I was with my supper club—a motley crew of friends, family and total strangers that included my parents and several very good friends, a depressed English girl who was about to be deported and a local food blogger who wouldn’t stop complaining about the flavor profiles.

I finally returned this spring, to find that DOC has blossomed into a lovely, and much cooler, dining experience. The tiny Europeanesque gem of a dining room seats a scant 24,  ensuring an intimate evening for you and your hot (but hopefully not too hot) date or supper club alike, and is fronted by a tiny galley kitchen that Thumbelina would feel at home in, which turns out simple, delicious dishes like risotto with fava beans and preserved lemon, and housemade chicken sausage with summer zucchini, sun dried tomato, and kohlrabi.

The wine list is 100 percent Italian, just like my grandfather, and has the same big personality—it’s an impeccably compiled collection of sparklies, rosés, whites and reds, many of them accessibly priced in the $20s-$40s range. Not to be missed are the cocktails, I’m partial to the Negroni myself. Desserts are lovely, the buttermilk panna cotta with strawberries is just what a warm (but hopefully not too warm) summer evening calls for, and it has a superb flavor profile, in case you’re wondering.

Details

Cuisine: Italian

Sous Chef: Melissa Pelletier

Atmosphere: Small, sweet, romantic, fascinating—you may glance at what seems to be a prep station by the door and wonder where the kitchen is,… yes, that’s it.

Outdoor seating: A handful of sidewalk tables in fair weather

Best Seat: Not a bad seat in the house, but the outside tables are lovely on a warm evening

Noise Level: Inside is Boisterous, Outside is Normal

Dress Code: Casual to Dressy Casual

Bathrooms: One, in the back of the restaurant, left side, opens directly onto restaurant so remember not to overtly adjust your fly as you open the door to return to the dining room.

Parking: Free and ample on surrounding side streets.

Cocktails: Full bar, list features aperitifs, digestifs, house cocktails are $7-$10, and five grappas are available by the glass to end your meal.

Beer: Morreti Pilsner and Peroni ($4)

Wine: Fiercely Italian, very nice two-page selection of sparklies, rosés, whites and reds, bottles range from a $21 Prosecco to a $150 Nebbiolo. Attention bubbly-lovers—the menu features around 10 different sparkling wines.

Corkage: $20 per 750 mL

Teetotalers: San Pellegrino, Limonata, Aranciata

Coffee: Stumptown

Tea: Varies

Ideal Meal: Little gems lettuce salad with chicken leg meat, capers and tarragon dressing; risotto, sorbet and biscotti with a glass of vin santo

Vegetarian Friendly: Yes

Vegan Friendly: Yes

Good for the following occasions: Romantic Date, Out With Friends, Special & Splurgey

Group/Private Party Details: Parties of up to 8 can be accommodated, and the entire restaurant is available to be rented out for private parties, call for more info.

Reservations: Yes

Take-Out: No