Laurelhurst Market

As a Simpatica and Viande devotee, I was over the moon (which I happen to think is made of meat, not green cheese) to hear that those delicious Simpatica boys were opening Laurelhurst Market–butcher shop by day, ‘steakhouse that doesn’t feel at all like a steakhouse’ by night. It sounded like my kind of place.

Lest those with meat prejudices be sniffing disdainfully right now, the menu offers up some of the finest salads and small plates in town–the duck confit and pickled strawberry salad was a revelation, the side of beets with pistachios and rhubarb gastrique was some of the best non-meat I ever ate, and the Viridian Farms raspberries with blue cheese and mint almost made me wish the moon was made out of salad.

The restaurant space is as smooth and classy as a fine single malt scotch, all polished concrete floors and exposed ducts and wooden beams and clean lines. An immaculate bar hides from the dining room behind a shoulder-height wall, and the open kitchen spans the length of the back wall, beneath a hanging chalkboard illustrating what cuts of meat are being served that day and exactly from where on the cow they were severed .

Back in the kitchen, the good-looking crew cooks up just about every cut of beef under the sun, along with some pork, lamb, poultry, and seafood cooked on cedar planks. A box at the bottom of the menu assists those who aren’t sure how they want their meat cooked—rare=”red, cool center”, medium=”pink, hot center”, well done=”not recommended”. This last one caused me to chortle my way through an entire order of deviled eggs with house-cured guanciale.

Lest those with meat prejudices be sniffing disdainfully right now, the menu offers up some of the finest salads and small plates in town—the duck confit and pickled strawberry salad was a revelation, the side of beets with pistachios and rhubarb gastrique was some of the best non-meat I ever ate, and the Viridian Farms raspberries with blue cheese and mint almost made me wish the moon was made out of salad.

Details

Cuisine: New American

Executive Chef: David Kreifels

Owner: David Kreifels, Jason Owens, Benjamin Dyer

Atmosphere: Polished ‘un-steakhouse’ with a slightly industrial feel, a relaxed crowd, good looking staff, and a great indoor/outdoor bar

Outdoor seating: Yes, there are patio tables out front and around the side

Best Seat: Anything facing the kitchen

Noise Level: Energetic

Dress Code: Casual

Bring the Kids: No

Bathrooms: Located against the wall in the back of the bar, to the left of the kitchen.

Parking: Free and easy to find on surrounding side streets

Cocktails: Yes, a list of excellent house cocktails ($8-$10) and a full bar

Beer: A half dozen or so draft beers, $2-$6

Wine: West Coast and European sparkling, white, rose, and red wines by the glass ($6-$12) and bottle ($21-$97)

Teetotalers: Fentiman's sodas--cola, mandarin, ginger beer, burdock & dandelion

Coffee: Stumptown, french press

Tea: Loose-leaf (Harmony herbal blend, Foxfire black blend, Bancha green)

Ideal Meal: Wedge salad, steak tartare, marrow bones, mussels frites, Wagyu teres major

Vegetarian Friendly: Yes

Vegan Friendly: Not particularly

Good for the following occasions: Out with Friends, Family Meal, Casual Date

Reservations: Reservations accepted for parties of 6 or more. Use the online reservation form on the website.

Take-Out: Yes

Delivery: No