Red Onion Thai

Red Onion Thai Cuisine opened recently in the old Misohapi space on NW 23rd at Northrup, and I am pretty hapi about it all right.

The chef/owner, Dang Boonyakamol, of well-regarded Dang’s Thai Kitchen in Lake Oswego, is in the kitchen turning out delicious and beautifully-presented dishes like tangy Tom Yum sweet and sour lemon grass soup, and a variety of salads and traditional appetizers like the Po Pia Sod—a fresh roll filled with tofu, shrimp, Chinese sausage, vegetables, and egg and topped with sweet shards of Dungeness crab, served with a tempting peanut plum sauce that will have you and your fellow diners fighting for the last smears in the cup.

The Po Pia Sod—a fresh roll filled with tofu, shrimp, Chinese sausage, vegetables, and egg and topped with sweet shards of Dungeness crab–is served with a tempting peanut plum sauce that will have you and your fellow diners fighting for the last smears in the cup.

Noodle dishes like the basil-inflected Pad Kee Mao and the roasted duck with egg noodle soup are well balanced, and the curries are thick and flavorful–the panang curry with salmon comes with sizeable pieces of grilled fillet floating in a rich panang sauce surrounded with green beans, bell peppers, and asparagus spears, three of which are tied together and set upright, reflecting Dang’s precise food artistry.

The Oregon-centric wine list serves up Asian-food friendly varietals such as Riesling and Pinot Noir at a reasonable $6-$8 a glass, and there’s a dozen or so bottled beers to choose from. I’m also addicted to the fresh squeezed lime juice with soda water—it’s just slightly sweetened, refreshing and not at all cloying, perfect for a hot summer’s eve.

Details

Cuisine: Thai

Executive Chef: Dang Yakimo

Atmosphere: Immaculate, spare but elegant décor, dark wood floors, tables spaced a comfortable distance from one another

Outdoor seating: No

Best Seat: In the window, but there isn’t a bad seat

Noise Level: Normal

Bathrooms: All the way to the back of the dining room

Parking: Free on NW 23rd and surrounding side streets

Cocktails: No

Beer: Thai and domestic beers in the bottle

Wine: Mostly Oregon wines, a few Californian and Washington labels. White wine selection includes Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, and Riesling; Red wines include Pinot Noir, Merlot, Cabernet; by the glass $6-$8, bottles $22-$42.

Teetotalers: Iced Tea, Thai Iced Tea, Thai Lemon Iced Tea, Thai Iced Coffee, Mango Juice, Coconut Juice, Orange Juice, Fresh Lime Juice with Soda (fantastic!)

Coffee: World Cup

Tea: Tazo

Ideal Meal: Po Pia Sod fresh roll with crab, Beef Satay, Pad Kee Mao (Drunken Noodles), Panang Curry with Salmon

Vegetarian Friendly: Yes

Vegan Friendly: Yes

Good for the following occasions: Out With Friends, Family Meal

Group/Private Party Details: The restaurant can accommodate groups of up to 12 in the dining room with a reservation, and has a separate dining room that can accommodate parties of up to 25. Red Onion also caters, call for more information.

Reservations: Yes, for groups of 6 or more

Take-Out: Yes

Delivery: No