Tastebud

One of the most delectable universal truths in life is that pretty much anything cooked in a wood-fired oven will taste like ambrosia. And since nearly everything at Tastebud does time in the restaurant’s wood-fired brick oven, well, I think you can imagine how good a meal here tastes, from divinely-smoky start (broccoli with lemon and anchovy) to hearth-roasted finish (wild berry crisp).

Since nearly everything at Tastebud does time in the restaurant’s wood-fired brick oven, well, I think you can imagine how good a meal here tastes, from divinely-smoky start (broccoli with lemon and anchovy) to hearth-roasted finish (wild berry crisp).

Chef/owner Mark Doxtader, an affable bear of a fellow, first started serving his trademark Montreal-style wood-fired bagels and other baked goods at the Portland Farmers Market over a decade ago, slowly expanded to five markets, and then in 2008, was able to open a small restaurant in Southeast Portland’s Brooklyn neighborhood, located across from the landmark Aladdin Theater behind a concrete fountain capped with twisting vines.

Tastebud’s staunchly seasonal menu starts with simple, rustic dishes like lemony organic autumn greens and a crisp Caesar with bagel croutons, as well as a few fresh-off-the-fire specials like hearth-roasted clams with garlic and Aleppo peppers.

Then there are the pizzas—built on a foundation of chewy, slightly tangy crust with beautiful bubble blisters and just the right amount of char, topped with adornments only a former farmer and Farmers Market champion could dream up—like shiitake mushrooms and braised greens with basil pesto and house pancetta, pears, mascarpone, and arugula.

Tastebud’s dainty dining room is small, elegant and filled with fresh flowers, sort of like my grandmother’s parlor (except without the crimson velvet sofa), but if the weather is agreeable, request a table on the pretty grapevine-entwined garden patio near the burbling fountain, and try to catch a whiff of the magical, marvelous oven responsible for your wood-fired nirvana.

Details

Cuisine: Pizza

Executive Chef: Mark Doxtader

Atmosphere: Intimate, immaculate, elegant little dining room that sadly affords no view of the kitchen

Outdoor seating: Yes, Tastebud has a private patio in a very pretty garden setting

Best Seat: The patio

Noise Level: Energetic, it’s a small place so it gets lively when full

Dress Code: Casual to Dressy Casual

Bring the Kids: Yes

Bathrooms: Yes, outside the dining room and take a right, they are brand new and spotless

Parking: Free and generally plentiful on surrounding streets

Cocktails: No

Beer: Two local microbrews on tap ($4-$5), and a half dozen canned/bottled beers ($3-$11)

Wine: Brief but lovely wine list by the glass ($6-$8) and bottle ($23-$30)

Corkage: $10 per 750mL

Coffee: Stumptown

Tea: Stash

Vegetarian Friendly: Yes

Vegan Friendly: Yes

Good for the following occasions: Meal With Friends, Casual Date, Dining Al Fresco

Group/Private Party Details: The Dining Room can be reserved for private events, call 503.234.0330 for more info

Reservations: For parties of 8 or more

Take-Out: Yes

Deals: Quite possibly, the best distraction ever invented to take your mind off the depressing proximity of dreaded Mondays has to be Tastebud’s All-You-Can-Eat-Pizza Sunday special—every Sunday night from 5-9pm, eat your fill of wood-fired pizza and salad for only $15.