Country Cat

Strolling the stretch of Southeast Stark Street between 82nd and Mt. Tabor, I always get a bit of a crush on scrappy Montavilla, a city neighborhood even a country mouse would feel at home in. The all-American lineup of small businesses occupying its easily-overlooked seven-block commercial core include the neighborhood mechanic, lumber store, Academy movie theater, pizzeria, pie shop, bakery, requisite handful of dive bars, and The Country Cat, a humble but dapper family-friendly little eatery woven seamlessly into Montavilla’s working-class tapestry.

If you’re looking for hearty and value conscious weeknight grub, definitely explore Country Cat’s weeknight specials menu, my favorite’s the Tuesday PB&J (Pork sandwich, BBQ baked beans, and a jigger of Jack) for a mere $12.

Chef Adam Sappington’s Midwestern upbringing, longtime tour of kitchen duty at renowned Wildwood, and deep affection for Portland’s edible resources influence his farm-to-table country cookin’-with-an-edge—order cast iron skillet-fried chicken with bacon-braised collards or get a bit fancier with the hickory-smoked duck leg in porcini mustard, grilled Idaho trout and roasted sweet pepper hash, and the Whole Hog—a three-pronged porkout consisting of rolled belly, grilled ham steak and smoked shoulder with South Carolina grits.

Pastry Chef and Other Half Jackie Sappington rides herd on a dessert menu that elevates classics to new levels—her cheesecake is laced with bourbon and tucked into a dark chocolate crust, her fruit crisp is baked with sweet local plums and brown sugar and paired with creamy butter pecan ice cream, her take on good old-fashioned pudding involves three tea party-sized cups of chocolate, butterscotch and crème brulee—always a hit with kids and kids at heart alike.

If you’re looking for hearty and value conscious weeknight grub, definitely explore Country Cat’s weeknight specials menu, my favorite’s the Tuesday PB&J (Pork sandwich, BBQ baked beans, and a jigger of Jack) for a mere $12, and brunch is fantastic, try the whiskey custard challah french toast, cast iron skillet fried chicken with toasted pecan spoonbread, and famous cinnamon rolls (available only on the weekends).

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